These characterizations have taken decades to earn. And earn them Detroit did. Poverty, crime, the worst schools in the country, corruption from the mayor's office on down, and neighborhoods that have become vasts empty swaths of overgrown weeds and broken concrete. I travel parts of this city that would make you wonder if you're still in the United State. It's the very images you inevitably see on the evening news whenever there's a story about Detroit: burned out buildings, homeless people on every corner, abandoned cars, and mountains of tires dumped in an alley.
The city has been in decline since the riots of the 60s. I moved here in 1979. I've watched a lot of it happen right before my eyes. But like many, I watched from afar. Even though the house we lived in was only one street away from Detroit, I wasn't a Detroiter. I considered myself a Californian. Detroit didn't mean that much to me. I only said I was from Detroit when talking to strangers who asked where I lived. It made me sound edgier, I guess.
But all that changed when I took a job in the city 13 years ago. Our offices are in a neighborhood just like the stereotypical ones you see on TV. Houses that are half crumbled from neglect, stray dogs running the streets, and smashed empty pint bottles of Hennessey on the sidewalk. It's not a nice neighborhood and not something that inspires optimism. But if you look past the facade, you'll see a new Detroit sprouting like a daffodil.
What you haven't seen on tv if you aren't from here, is the genuine renaissance going on right now. There's progress. REAL progress. What is happening is at a grass roots level. People actually moving into existing houses, fixing them up, and calling it home. An old building that sat empty for decades has been refurbished into a bagel shop. An house remade into a thriving restaurant called Mudgies (and serving one of the best sandwiches you'll ever have - The Gutty). And countless more stories of successful additions to the food scene.
Neighborhoods are returning to vibrancy. Currently, there's not enough housing available in the Midtown area - up Woodward near the medical center. There's a condo for sale in Corktown for $850,000!!! Vacant lots are going for $500k.
Keep in mind, about 5 or 6 years ago, you could buy a home for $500. In some cases, the city actually PAID you to take a house. But thanks to competent government leadership, accountability, and an escalating economy, the spirit of Detroit is kicking some serious ass.
Downtown Detroit on a Friday or Saturday night has become a destination for all kinds of entertainment for people from all over southeast Michigan. Detroit is second only to New York in theater seating. GM bought the Renaissance Center in Detroit 8 years ago, and as part of their plan, they've created a river walk that stretches for miles along the Detroit River (which, for those of you that skipped geography, separates the US from Canada*.)
*Here's a quick little fact you can impress your friends with: Canada is SOUTH of Detroit. I swear, it's true. Look at a map. The river comes up from Lake Erie, passes along Wyandotte, Ecorse, and River Rouge, then bends towards the Northeast as it approaches Detroit. Just as it passes under the Ambassador Bridge, the River is basically traveling east and west. The tunnel to Windsor runs north and south.
Speaking of the river, it is one of the best fisheries in North America. Millions (and maybe even billions) of walleye swim up the river to spawn every spring. World class musky over 50" long, hordes of bass, the occasional steelhead, and giant sturgeon lurking the river bottom. A few years ago while fishing for walleye, I hooked into one of these prehistoric monsters that was well over 6' long and 100 pounds. I fought that fish for THREE AND A HALF HOURS only to have it come off the hook unceremoniously.
Anyway, back to the city. You can watch a baseball game at one of the best new stadiums in MLB, Comerica Park.
Right next door is Ford Field, home of the Lions. Just up Woodward and over the highway is the site of the new Red Wings ice area currently under construction.
Countless bars and restaurants surround the area for your pre- and post-game celebration/drowning your sorrows. Two James Distillery offers tours of their facility which includes free samples of their product. Shinola opened a factory in Detroit, making fine hand-made watches, leather goods, and bikes. Campus Martius Park has music, dancing, and outdoor ice skating in the winter. Dan Gilbert - owner of Quicken Loans and the Cleveland Cavaliers - has been renovating dozens of buildings throughout downtown. If ever a man put his money where his mouth is, it's Dan Gilbert.
The annual Downtown Hoedown is a country music festival held right on the river front and includes acts like Darrius Rucker and Rascal Flats. There's bicycle tours, a new light rail going in, gambling at three different casinos, and food. Lots and lots of excellent food.
You're not likely to book your next family vacation to Detroit if you live in say, LA. (But if you do, please put me on speaker phone when you pitch the idea to the kids.) However, if you're summer plans do include a trip to Michigan or one of the surrounding states (please God, not Ohio. Tell me you're not vacationing in Ohio), make it a point to visit the D. If you need a tour guide, I'm available. I promise, you will see things you never thought you'd see. You'll eat amazing food, share drinks with super friendly people, and come away with an entirely new appreciation for the Motor City.
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| Heading off the water after a successful fishing trip in the Detroit River. Canada is to the south (the left) |
